Oh you mad lad.
The "expert mode" is the wonderful CLI side of things.
It's been a many moons since I've logged into a Safe@office appliance at all let alone the CLI.
Here is the CLI guide
http://downloads.checkpoint.com/dc/download.htm?ID=61963
And here is the link the resource page:
https://supportcenter.checkpoint.com/supportcenter/portal?eventSubmit_doShowproductpage&productTab=o...
So if you have a wee bit of Linux skills you can navigate around it pretty well.
For looking at traffic:
To see for a specific host and port:
# fw monitor -e 'accept host(x.x.x.x) and port(N);'
Kill with a ctrl-c
To see between either two host and another:
# fw monitor -e 'accept host(x.x.x.x) or host(y.y.y.y) and host(z.z.z.z);'
I can't remember if drop debugs work but if it does this can help:
fw ctl zdebug + drop
kill with a ctrl-c
You can add a grep for a specific item:
fw ctl zdebug + drop | grep "thingIwantTofind"
Kill with a ctrl-C
Standard logs are in $FWDIR/log/ and iirc you can use the "less" command to look at them as well as "cat" and "more
Good luck!